May 14, 2025
Traditional hanfu men
I love looking to history and heritage for inspiration. Although hanfu was historically made from woven fabrics seamed together, this sweater boasts a seamless knitted construction. Nonetheless, I’ve incorporated many features of hanfu in this design – dolman sleeves, curved underarms, continuous grain direction, a curved hem, a left-over-right collar, asymmetric fronts, and an inner collar that doesn’t extend all the way to the side seam. This pattern is inspired by extant ceramics and hanfu (clothing) from the Ming Dynasty, taking cues from the floral scrolls decorating blue-and-white porcelain and the silhouette of the jiaoling aoqun (cross-collared jacket with skirt). If I were to classify this garment, it would be hanyuansu (clothing with Han elements) inspired by Ming Dynasty jiaoling shan (unlined shirt) with jianxiu (tapered sleeves). There are also bits of inspiration throughout – faux seams where real ones existed historically, a stockinette band that emulates the huling (collar protector), and double-knit fabric to emulate hems. This sweater is constructed top-down, using a variety of techniques: provisional cast-on, double-knitting, cables, crocheted bobbles, 3-needle bind-off, tubular bind-off, and embroidery. Don’t let that intimidate you, though – there are huge expanses of stockinette stitch to allow for fairly mindless knitting, and it’s worked up quickly in a bulky-weight yarn. The sample shown uses a bulky-weight tube-blown yarn. It comprises alpaca and merino fibers blown into a knitted nylon tube. Construction method: This jacket is worked seamlessly from the top down. The yarn is light and warm, with a heathered appearance. Then stitches are cast on for the shoulder and picked up from the collar. It starts at the back collar. The back is knit from these stitches, with dolman sleeves being worked at the same time. The underarms are completed with 3-needle bind off. The fronts and back are joined and the rest of the sweater is worked from the underarms. Stitches are picked up from the shoulders to work the fronts. Difficulty: The Extraspicy classification means that multiple shapings are happening at the same time. The techniques are not any harder than any other pattern; this pattern simply requires careful tracking of each set of instructions as you work. Finally, ties are knitted on. Read ahead and note simultaneous shaping instructions for the size you’re working. Thank you to Sally Holt of knitCompanion for this gift to Knitty readers! To get the kCDesigns version, click here. If you’re new to knitCompanion and using kCDesigns files, this video should help. Questions about knitCompanion? Check this page. Note: Jasmine and Knitty are not able to provide support for knitCompanion. If there is double-knitting on the edges of the row, “work in patt to m/end of row” requires you to work all required turns as part of the double-knitting. Sl1 to cn and hold in front, sl1 wyif from left needle, p1 from cn. Special gift: Knit Companion has formatted this pattern into a kCDesigns version, which means that if you use the knitCompanion app, you can load this pattern in directly with all the shaping to be tracked already noted and ready to use, free of charge. Sl1 to cn and hold in back, sl1 wyib from left needle, k1 from cn. Sl1 to cn and hold in back, p1 from left needle, sl1 wyif from cn. Sl1 to cn and hold in front, k1 from left needle, sl1 wyib from cn. 1 wyif, bring yarn to back over the needle, bringing it back to front so you are ready to purl. Sl2 to cn and hold in front, k1tbl from left needle, (k1, sl1 wyib) from cn. On WS (or RS of reverse stockinette): Turn work (so RS is facing you), bring yarn to front, sl1 wyif, bring yarn to back over the needle so you are ready to knit. PU 1 to cn: Insert RH between first 2 sts on left needle, yarn over and pull up stitch (as for cable cast-on). 3 times, yo and pull through st, yo and pull through all 7 loops on hook, transfer st on hook to RH. Slip resulting st to cable needle and hold in front. K1cn-to-cn: K1 from cable needle, slip st just worked from RH back to cable needle and hold in front. Cast on 24 sts using provisional cast on and waste yarn. Row 2B: Work next B-side row of ChartBA. Unravel provisional cast on from beginning of collar and transfer 24 sts to working needle with RS facing. Row 4: Work in patt to 4 sts before double st, gsr. Row 3: Work in patt to 4 sts before double st, gsr. Work in patt to 3 sts before double st, gsr. Work in patt to 3 sts before double st, gsr. Work in patt to 2 sts before double st, gsr. Work in patt to 2 sts before double st, gsr. Work in patt to 1 st before double st, gsr. Work in patt to 1 st before double st, gsr. Work in patt to double st, gsr. Work in patt to double st, gsr. Work evenly in patt across row, knitting double stitches together as you come across them. Work evenly in patt across row, purling double stitches together as you come across them. Note: You may break yarn here or wait until after finishing the Left Front. Transfer sts to holder. Transfer sts on Stitch Holder 1 to working needle with RS facing. The tail can be used to complete the 3-needle BO under the arms. A-side row of Chart A across sts from stitch holder 1, turn, work next B-side row across 24 sts, turn, work next A-side row to end. Work next B-side row of Chart A to m, sl m, purl to m, sl m, (sl1 wyif, k1) 3 times. Row 3: Work in patt as est to end of row. Row 4: Work in patt as est to end of row. Note: Read ahead; you will be working Collar Shaping and Sleeve Shaping simultaneously. Collar Shaping have been completed, start working Sleeve Shaping at the same time. To start, you will only work Collar Shaping. Work in patt to m, sl m, work in patt to 1 st before m, M1R, work in patt to end. Please note that Collar Shaping will continue beyond the sleeves; after the Sleeve BO, continue working remaining Collar Shaping during the Body section. 1 st increased at collar. Note: On following row, work sts from left needle unless otherwise noted in instructions. Rows 2-4: Work even in patt to end of row. Switch from working Chart A to Chart C when instructed, proceeding to the following row number (to maintain pattern). 1 wyif, PU 1 to cn, k1, k1cn-to-cn, (sl1wyif, k1, k1cn-to-cn) 5 times, turn (keeping 1 st on cn), (sl1 wyif, k1, k1cn-to-cn) 5 times, sl1 wyif, sl st from cn to left needle, k2tog tbl, work 12 sts in Chart A, turn, work next row of Chart C to end. Work in patt to m, sl m, work in patt to m, sl m, p1tbl, work in patt to m, sl m, work in patt to end. 1 st increased at collar. Work in patt to m, sl m, work in patt to 1 st before m, sl1 wyib, sl m, work in patt to m, sl m, work in patt to end. 1 st increased at collar. Row 9: Work in patt to m, sl m, work in patt to 1 st before m, sl1 wyib, sl m, work in patt to 1 st before m, M1R, sl m, work in patt to end. Work 6 rows even in patt. Next row: Work in patt to last m, k9, work in patt to end. 3 times, p9, work in patt to end. Next row: (Sl1 wyif, k1) 3 times, p9, work in patt to end. Collar Shaping is now complete. Work in patt to end of row. Row 3: Work in patt to end of row. Row 4: Work in patt to 4 sts before double st, gsr. Work in patt to end of row. Work in patt to 3 sts before double st, gsr. Work in patt to end of row. Work in patt to 2 sts before double st, gsr. Work in patt to 1 st before double st, gsr. Work in patt to end of row. Work in patt to double st, gsr. Work in patt to end of row. Work in patt to end of row. Once this section is complete, move onto Sleeve Bind-Off, continuing to work Collar Shaping. Work in patt to end of row, purling double stitches together as you come across them. Fold work at the shoulder seam (provisional CO) with WS together and Back (LN1) at front and Right Front (LN2) at back. Place held Back sts on spare circ. 2 times. Sl 2 sts on RN back to LN1 and k2tbl. 4 sts from each needle decreased to 1 st rem on RN. Insert RN knitwise into first 2 sts on LN1, then into first 2 sts on LN2, and k4tog. Sl 2 sts on RN back to LN1 and k2tog. Insert RN knitwise into st on LN1, then into first st on LN2, and k2tog. Insert RN knitwise into first 2 sts on LN1 (as if to k2tog), then into first 2 sts on LN2. Transfer rem live sts to holder. Transfer sts on Stitch Holder 2 to working needle. Sl 2 sts on RN back to LN1 and k2tbl. 3 times, sl m, p to m, sl m, work B-side row of Chart B to end. Unravel the provisional cast on at the left shoulder and place sts on working needle. Row 3: Work in patt to end of row. Row 4: Work in patt to end of row. To start, you will only work Collar Shaping. Note: Read ahead; you will be working Collar Shaping and Sleeve Shaping simultaneously. Collar Shaping have been completed, start working Sleeve Shaping at the same time. Collar Shaping will continue beyond the sleeves; after the Sleeve BO, continue working remaining Collar Shaping during the Body section. Work in patt to m, sl m, k1, M1L, work in patt to end. NOTE: Stitch counts are not included as there is other shaping worked simultaneously. Rows 2-4: Work even in patt to end of row. 1 st increased at collar. Work in patt to m, sl m, k1, M1L, work in patt to end of row. Work even in patt to end of row. 1 st increased at collar. Note: On following row, work sts from left needle unless otherwise noted in instructions. Switch from working Chart B to Chart D when instructed, proceeding to the following row number (to maintain pattern). 1 st increased at collar. Work in Chart B patt for 24 sts, turn, work in Chart B patt for 12 sts, sl1wyif, PU 1 to cn, k1, k1cn-to-cn, (sl1wyif, k1, k1cn-to-cn) 5 times, turn (keeping sl st on CN and bringing it around to the front), (sl1wyif, k1, k1cn-to-cn) 5 times, sl1wyif, sl st from cn to left needle, k2tog tbl, work in patt for 12 sts, sl m, k1, M1L, pm, work in patt to end. Work in patt to second m, sl m, p1tbl, purl to m, sl m, work next row of Chart D to end. Row 5: (Work next row of Chart D, turn) 2 times, work next row of Chart D, sl m, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before m, sl1 wyib, work in patt to end. Row 6: Work in patt to end. Work in patt to m, sl m, k1, M1L, work in patt to end of row. 1 st increased at collar. Work even in patt to 1 st before last m, M1PR, work in patt to end of row. 1 st increased at collar. Row 9: Work in patt to m, sl m, k1, M1L, work in patt to end of row. 1 st increased at collar. Row 10: Work even in patt to end of row. Note: Some of the A-side and B-side rows are worked out of order for this section. 1 st increased at collar. Instead, resolve the stitch order on the following A-side row. If a B-side row contains cables and is being worked before the corresponding A-side, do not work the B-side cables. Work next A-side row of Chart D, turn, work next B-side row of Chart D for 22 sts, gsr, work next B-side row of Chart D for 22 sts, sl m, k1, M1L, work in patt to end. 1 st increased at collar. Work even in patt to 1 st before last m, M1PR, p1, sl m, work next A-side row of Chart D for 19 sts, gsr. 1 st increased at collar. Row 3: Work next A-side row of Chart D to m, turn, work next B-side row of Chart D to 2 sts before last double stitch, gsr, work next B-side row of Chart D to m, sl m, k1, m1L, work in patt to end. 1 st increased at collar. Row 4: Work even in patt to 1 st before last m, M1PR, p1, sl m, work next A-side row of Chart D to 2 sts before last double stitch, gsr. 1 st increased at collar. Repeat Rows 3-4 3 times more. 1 st increased at collar. Work even in patt to 1 st before last m, M1PR, p1, sl m, chinese traditional clothing work next B-side row of Chart D to end. Work next A-side row of Chart D to m, turn, work next B-side row of Chart D to end (working double stitches together in patt), turn, work next A-side row of Chart D to m, sl m, k1, M1L, work in patt to end. 1 st increased at collar. Next row: K2tog, (k2tog, pass second stitch on RH over first stitch on RH) 11 times, k1, pass second st on RH over first st on RH, work even in patt to end. Next row: Work even in patt to last 3 sts, pm, (pick up and knit 1 st from row below, k1) 3 times. All 24 original sts of collar have now been BO or decreased. 3 times, sl m, work in patt to end. Work in patt to last m, (sl1wyif, k1) 3 times. 3 sts increased at collar. Collar Shaping is now complete. The last 2 rows establish the patt at the left front collar. Work in patt to 4 sts before double st, gsr. Work in patt to end of row. Work in patt to end of row. Work in patt to 3 sts before double st, gsr. Work in patt to end of row. Work in patt to end of row. Work in patt to 1 st before double st, gsr. Work in patt to 2 sts before double st, gsr. Work in patt to end of row. Next row: Work in patt to end of row. Next row: Work in patt to double st, gsr. Next row: Work evenly in patt across row, knitting double stitches together as you come across them. Next row: Work evenly in patt across row, purling double stitches together as you come across them. Once this section is complete, move onto Sleeve Bind-Off (Collar Shaping will be incomplete at this point). Fold work at the shoulder seam (provisional CO) with WS together and Left Front (LN1) at front and Back (LN2) at back. Once Sleeve Shaping has been completed, orient all live sts on main needle so that from RS, they are ordered: Left Front, remaining st from Left Sleeve BO, Back, remaining st from Right Sleeve BO, Right Front. NOTE: While working the Body section, continue working remaining Collar Shaping and Patterning on both Fronts. 2 times, work in patt to end. Working in patt, work across Left Front sts to rem st from Left Sleeve BO, M1R, sl1 wyib, place side m, M1L, work across Back sts, M1R, sl1 wyib (rem st from Right Sleeve BO), place side m, M1L, work across Right Front sts. Row 3: (Patt to 1 st before side m, sl1 wyib, sl m) 2 times, patt to end. Row 4: (Work in patt to side m, p1tbl) 2 times, work in patt to end. Repeat Rows 3-4 13 times more. Collar Shaping is now complete. At this point, you should have (6 sts double knitting), m, (St st for Left Front), (1 st false seam), m, (St st for Left Front), (1 st false seam), m, (St st for Back), (1 st false seam), m, (St st for Back), (1 st false seam), m, (St st for Right Front), (1 st false seam), m, (St st for Right Front), m, (6 sts double knitting). The A-line increases will take place on either side of the false seams. 5 times, k to m, M1R, sl m, work in patt to end. Increase row once more. Repeat Rows 1-4 until hem measures 1.5 inches/4 cm, ending after a WS row. 1.5 inches/4 cm shorter than overall desired length. Separate alternating sts onto separate needles (i.e. sl1 to RN1 and hold in back, sl1 to RN2 and hold in front, cont to end). Break yarn, leaving a tail approx. 3 times the width of the hem. In total, 6 ties are worked: 4 outer (2 on the left front edge, 2 outside the right side) and 2 inner (1 on the right front edge, 1 inside the left side). Also work ties on the inside of the right front at the same height. Work a tie on the Left Front edge in the middle of the Collar stitches, and about 2 inches/2.5 cm down from there. Pick up and knit 3 sts, orienting work perpendicular to the previous direction of work. Rep Row 1 until tie measures 10 inches/25.5 cm. K3tog and fasten off. Work a tie on the Right Front edge at the end of Chart C, and on the inside of the left side at the same height. Pick up and knit 3 sts, orienting work perpendicular to the previous direction of work. K3, slide sts to opposite needle. K3, slide sts to opposite needle. K3tog and fasten off. Rep Row 1 until tie measures 12 inches/30.5 cm. Cut a piece of yarn approximately double the length of one arm. Whenever you run out of yarn during embroidery, thread a new needle following the same directions. Thread through the yarn needle, pulling until the two tails are even with each other. Around each visible bobble, embroider a bullion stitch rose. To make a bullion stitch, wrap the yarn counterclockwise around the yarn needle. After this, make a backstitch; insert the needle in the fabric to secure the bullion stitch down, then pull it out a little behind the edge of the petal. Then, pull the needle through. The inner round of petals is made of 3 bullion stitches, each with 8 wraps. For larger roses on the right side, 2-3 extra bullion stitches are added in another round. In the remaining space, embroider stem stitch roses. These ones are made with 11 wraps. Around this center, embroider about 6 stem stitches. Create the center using multiple backstitches. Jasmine is a Chinese-Canadian textile artist who is passionate about connection through craft. Weave in ends. Block as desired. She loves combining the fiber arts with her other interests – like music, science, and culture – to create innovative designs. When she’s not knitting, she’s probably spinning yarn or studying new ideas.
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